Notes and instructions for our Moai SLA Printer
THIS PRINTER IS ONLY TO BE USED BY STAFF
- liquid resin is much nastier, both in terms of safety and to manage, than FDM filament. This includes the required post process clean up with IPA and UV curing
- resin is expensive
- the vat (print bed) is a consumable and relatively easy to damage
- models have to be carefully modified or designed and oriented for SLA
- they should be hollowed to save resin and the VAT
- suction is created peeling each layer, so…
- flat areas should be printed at an angle to reduce surface area and the suction pressure
- drain holes are needed to allow unused resin to escape
- internal baffles and drain holes may be needed to control how resin flows around the object as it’s printing.
- it uses a laser powerful enough to damage vision
- 3D Hubs group of useful additions
- Peopoly Forum
- Peopoly Facebook page
- Peopoly wiki
- advanced levelling guide
- There is a final update in Beta! -
- Peopoly Asura - Moai’s own software. Has some basic barrel distortion correction built in. Good support structures, the ability to hollow shapes, and add drainage holes.
- Community recomendations:
- use Preform for orientation, possibly supports
- use ChituBox for supports
- FormWare is a slicer specifically developed for SLA printers. Most are based on modified software for FDM and have oddities/optimizations for e.g. flow control, bridging, etc, which aren’t relevant for SLA printers.
- Peopoly version of Cura 3.4
- Peopoly Cura profiles
- Forum guide for settings
NOTE Laser turns on when you adjust it in settings- so remove the tank BEFORE adjusting the power level! (reference)
- Trouble shooting guide
- SD Card (print files get merged when printing) - don’t delete G-Code files on the SD card; use SD Card formatter
- Barel distortion
- FW updated to 1.18 on 12th Sept 2018
- Asura 1.5 installed 12th Sept 2018
- Moai settings:
Cleanliness is really important for successful prints and our safety.
The resins are very viscous and sticky- they will get everywhere if care is not taken.
1. Model Preparation
Models need to be adjusted so that they
- are hollow (to save resin, to reduce “Peel pressure” and not damage the vat)
- have drain/pressure relief holes (so resin isn’t trapped afterwards, and to reduce suction during layer peels)
- possible tools: CAD (Fusion360, Solidworks, Onshape…), Modelling (blender, Maya, sculptress, 3DCoat,…), Meshmixer, Asura
2. Bed Preparation
- object needs to be oriented to reduce each layers surface area
- supports need to be added
- possible tools: Asura, Noble, XYZ, Meshmixer
- use Moai version of Cura
- make sure “Custom” is selected for profile
- use biggest layer height reasonable for your goals; more layers => more vat wear
- red part of print bed in Cura moves the most when peeling
- look at, and mark the “last print location” sheet on/by the printer. Must move prints around to maximize tank life!
- export G-Code to g-code folder on SD card
- do not delete g-code files on SD card (see SD card issues above)
- eject the SD card in Windows, don’t just pull it!!!
- SLA g-code files are VERY large. Windows buffers the writes; Cura will say it’s done, but windows will still be streaming the file to the SD card.
- check the resin tank is in place and has enough resin
- make sure bed is in place, and holding nut is just-tight
- close the door
- select the file and start the print
5. Post Processing
- wear gloves and eye protection!
- when print is done, remove bed from gantry and put it on the drip stand (red bracket at side of vat) for at least 10-15 minutes. This saves a lot of resin and makes for easier cleaning of your print.
- turn on the fan for the fume cabinet
- get clean water for rinse jar
- alternate 3 times rinsing in IPA and then water, 30 seconds each
- get clean water for curing
- carefully remove part from print bed
- use razor scraper, long scrape
- use a low angle (parallel to print bed surface)
- approach from multiple directions
- can nip supports get object, then remove supports from print bed
- supports can break off and pop/fly off print bed; please find and clean up where they land!
- use the spray bottle of IPA and paper towels to clean off the print bed, print bed handle, scrapers, and any other surface that resin has got on
- dunk print in water for curing (to exclude atmospheric oxygen which inhibits curing)
- surround with mirrors
- setup UV lamp
- cure with UV light for ~30 minutes. Rotate object occasionally
- cut, don’t break, supports for best results